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  1. #61
    Sorry I need to get caught up with my posting; I am much farther along than shown here, been busy with life.
    The bottom mount will have a track and slide and a way to lock it when I get into the position that I want. It has less machining but more is complicated.
    Like I said before the actuator has an automatic limit switch built in but if it does not reach it then you can burn it up so that is why it needs to be able to be adjustable.
    So,,,,,, to the scrap pile.





    Rough it out.
    The black line is where the slot will be for the track.



    I used a hack saw to cut the slot, it is very accurate.



    I drilled it and tapped it for ľ 20 to lock it.



    Then cut another slot for the actuator to sit in.
    Drill the hole for the pin, not real sure what kind of pin I am going to use, I donít want a threaded bolt, it will work like a file to gouge out the eye hole in the end of the actuator.



    And there is your bottom mount. I am only going to use about half the angle SS, it will be bolted to the bottom of the pack. This way to adjust the travel I will mount the top part, (three different positions to choose from) then close the lid and close the actuator and then just tighten up the bottom clamp. There will be a small hole just large enough to get my hand in to adjust the bottom mount and to unhook it if anything goes wrong.
    I need to do more work to the bottom of the pack, it needs more sanding and another layer of glass, it will also have aluminum flat bar under where it bolts to the mount.

  2. #62
    Moving on to the bottom.



    I want some aluminum flat bar (1/8”) where the mount goes to help distribute the weight so that the fiberglass does not crack at the bolt holes, fiberglass does not like things bolted to it, even with fender washers.



    I bolted those down then used a thin layer of glass to hold them in place, pull out the bolts and then.



    Glass over everything putting the reinforcing flat bar inside the glass.

    Here is how the top mount for the actuator is epoxied on.



    Yea everything needs cleaned up, including my shop:-)



    And an idea where the bottom mount goes.



    Drill some holes for a ANOTHER access hole.



    The paint stick is just for a temp shim.
    And there is your bottom actuator mount.




    https://youtu.be/1YJVKDxrbdo




    I have moved the actuator down to the bottom slot on the top mount, this makes the lid open farther and it needs that, it would still take the same amount of time for total travel but would seem faster. It takes ten seconds to open, in all honesty that is not that long.
    They make this actuator (actuonix from the robot shop, cost about seventy bucks) in three different gear ratios, and different lengths, fast that lift about five pounds; 60-1 takes about five seconds; medium speed lifts about fifteen (this is what I have) and is slower about ten seconds and then the 100-1 very slow that opens about 45 pounds. I could use a more powerful faster actuator but they are too big and too heavy to be practical.
    The wireless controller (e-bay cost about nineteen) has several different settings on it, this is push and hold and that is kind of a pain, there is a push let go setting, the controller sends power to the actuator until it reaches it limit switch. This is the setting that I will use once I get everything adjusted the way I want it, that way I click the button once while I am taking off my helmet and it opens. However until I get everything finalized I don’t want to burn up my actuator.
    I will also have a hidden switch under the pack so that I don’t have to carry the key fob.
    Let’s talk about the practical side of this, first it takes the place of a lock, then it takes the place of a rod/cable to limit the opening of the lid.
    Is it practical, probably not:-)
    Last edited by HarleyCruiser; 03-25-2018 at 09:47 AM.

  3. #63
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    For Sale
    What is the large diameter hole in the bottom for?

  4. #64
    Quote Originally Posted by Puzzled View Post
    What is the large diameter hole in the bottom for?
    That is a access hole to adjust the bottom mount on the actuator, it needs to slide on the rail for when the lid is closed then you lock the bolt. That way the actuator is fully retracted when the lid is closed. Also in case of a problem I can reach in just pull the pin and unhook it. It will have a cover.

  5. #65
    Chopped Bagger Asset!
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    Nice work. I just watched the video; I like the fluid motion of the actuator. Do you have an ebay link to the actuator and any of the other wireless components that you could share?

  6. #66
    Quote Originally Posted by Wanna Ride View Post
    Nice work. I just watched the video; I like the fluid motion of the actuator. Do you have an ebay link to the actuator and any of the other wireless components that you could share?
    Sure,
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wireless-DC...19.m1438.l2649

    These are really cool, they also make them to control more than one item. You could also use it to control a solenoid for other applications like a on off switch for the ignition if you wanted to.
    This one has three settings, I was using the press to move, let go and it stops, another function, you just press it once and it goes until the actuator hits the built in limit switch this is the function that I will use once I get it set up.
    I got the actuator from the robot shop,

    https://www.robotshop.com/en/catalog...vance&dir=desc

    This is a neat site, has some real cool stuff that is too technical for me to understand. The actuators come is different lengths and different gear ratios, Mine is 140 mm, and 63 to one, but need to go look at my notes. The gearing affects how fast it opens and how much weight. I probably could have gone with the faster, or with a shorter one and had it closer to the back, but am happy with how it works.
    In all honesty I have been running the pack without it, I have not gotten to the wiring of the lights or the actuator and the lid works just fine without anything. I can grab it with my finger nails and just lift it up, and no problem with it coming open while ridding. So not real sure how practical the actuator is, would be cool on a show bike.
    Once it get everything done I need a guard to keep anything out from under the actuator and that will take up space that I am not sure I want to give up.
    It one of the things that I wanted to play with sooooooooo.
    Last edited by HarleyCruiser; 03-28-2018 at 07:11 PM.

  7. #67
    I epoxied in the tubes for my LEDs



    Grind them flat.



    A little body filler and ready for paint.




    I shot some primer on it and it is amazing what it shows up.
    Look at the hole second to the end on the right.



    When is the best time to fix something.



    Move it where it should be.



    And epoxy a new one in.

  8. #68
    Chopped Bagger Asset!
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    Dec 2011
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    3,139
    Awesome. Thank you!
    Any idea what the range capability is on the wireless controller? I want to use something like this in a totally different application, to physically turn a 110vac light switch on and off. well, actually it will turn a three way-switch from red to green and back when activated. I already use the three-way switch for this, but I want to move it to a remote location and eliminate the need for the operator standing near the light. Of course, I could just run the switch to a remote location, but I want to have one person multi-task and do this wirelessly.

    Quote Originally Posted by HarleyCruiser View Post
    Sure,
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wireless-DC...19.m1438.l2649

    These are really cool, they also make them to control more than one item. You could also use it to control a solenoid for other applications like a on off switch for the ignition if you wanted to.
    This one has three settings, I was using the press to move, let go and it stops, another function, you just press it once and it goes until the actuator hits the built in limit switch this is the function that I will use once I get it set up.
    I got the actuator from the robot shop,

    https://www.robotshop.com/en/catalog...vance&dir=desc

    This is a neat site, has some real cool stuff that is too technical for me to understand. The actuators come is different lengths and different gear ratios, Mine is 140 mm, and 63 to one, but need to go look at my notes. The gearing affects how fast it opens and how much weight. I probably could have gone with the faster, or with a shorter one and had it closer to the back, but am happy with how it works.
    In all honesty I have been running the pack without it, I have not gotten to the wiring of the lights or the actuator and the lid works just fine without anything. I can grab it with my finger nails and just lift it up, and no problem with it coming open while ridding. So not real sure how practical the actuator is, would be cool on a show bike.
    Once it get everything done I need a guard to keep anything out from under the actuator and that will take up space that I am not sure I want to give up.
    It one of the things that I wanted to play with sooooooooo.
    Last edited by Wanna Ride; 03-29-2018 at 12:00 AM.

  9. #69
    Senior Member
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    Mar 2015
    Location
    Pittsburgh, Pa
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    504
    Keep in mind the current draw on the contact. By the looks of it, it does not look like anything high. I didn't search it ornanything, just wanted to bring it to.your attention.

    If you need to switch higher power, you could put a relay omin line with a higher amperage contact.

    Sent from my Note 4 using Tapatalk

  10. #70
    I did not try maximum range but it worked fine at twenty feet, when I get a chance I will give it a try.

 

 
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