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  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Puzzled View Post
    Nice project and great job with the pics showing us what you are up to.
    Thanks Puzzled, nice to see you in here.
    Here is how it is built up under this scrap metal peice where the hinges mount, first layer up the glass then clamp down the metal, let it cure. The extra will squeeze out leaving a nice flat surface.

    Then I am using a piece of angle to fill the rest of the area the same way, layer it up with glass then clamp it down.

    This is doing the same thing on the base, this give you a nice flat surface.

    You then temporally clamp the metal in and drill where your permanent bolts will go.

    There are several ways that you can anchor the bolts, I like to drill for the bolts then drill from the outside this way you know you are getting enough meat to not pull the nuts through.
    You counter sink the hole enough for the nut to be buried.

    Here is the top being done.

    Then you epoxy the nuts in, or in this case glass resin with some filler to make it thicker.

    Later I will use shorter bolts, and the nuts will be glassed over. I still have two to do, but they will go fast, I need to move them up where the glass is thicker, I drilled them not thinking about the thickness, so will redo those.
    The door opens and closes perfect, the alignment need to be adjusted, the door moved around slightly, I can either adjust the hinges or make the fiberglass on the base fit the door.
    The hinges help pull the door shut in the last inch that it closes so not even sure if I am going to need a latch. Not sure if I will need some way to pop it up either, it is pretty easy to just grab on both sides, and pull it open.
    I need to get a sheet of plastic to start making the bottom, I think I am going to trim the base a little more to have it come up a little more in the very back.
    More later

  2. #12
    I started working on the new bottom, I want to trim a little more, it is still a little fat and I want to make the bottom curved instead of just being flat, (I want it to match my bike a little better,) so stuck a helmet in to be sure there would be enough room. The felt marker line is just a suggestion. (This it tour pack up side down)

    Here is what the final shape is the cardboard is a copy of the first cut side to mark the other side for cutting.

    So I went to the hardware store and picked up some plastic for rent signs.

    And here it is with the first layer of glass.

    And what it looks like from the bottom, I did not use any PVA as a releasing agent, it came out pretty good but next time will use some shipping tape to have it release easer.

    I was able to give it a second layer, it still needs at least another two but want to let it cure so that it does not distort.
    Because I used a piece of plastic for a mold for the bottom, and did not use any gel coat first the surface is rough and some strands showing, I want to start the finishing process so I am giving the bottom a layer of gel coat with some Black color. This way it won’t take so much work moving forward. It is important to have all the glass strands buried when you start painting or it can ruin your paint. I am not sure if the tour pack is going to be painted or not but will run it just in gel coat to make sure everything work good before the final finish. ( At this point I am thinking to cover everything with carbon fiber)

    One more coat of gel, this time applied with a squeegee to fill the voids.

    It still needs another coat sprayed on, and everything sanded smooth before body work.
    Last edited by HarleyCruiser; 01-20-2018 at 10:08 AM.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Somewhere in N.E. Pa.
    For Sale
    Are you going to use a metal plate inside of the TP or glass one into the TP?

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Puzzled View Post
    Are you going to use a metal plate inside of the TP or glass one into the TP?
    Yes there will be a 1/8x1 1/2 flat aluminum bar inside that is glassed inside the bottom. But first I need to decide where they are going to go so I am starting the temporary mount. These quick release mounts plates are from a solo rack that I made years ago, and will use them for the mock up.

    Here it is just on a chunk of wood and setting on the seat. I am just getting a feel for how long the braces need to be.

    And here is the general area that it is going to sit, I am going to lower it about an inch. I want it high enough that it is comfortable for my wife but low enough that it is stylish.

    I still don’t know what I am going to make the permanent mount out of yet, 1/4 inch aluminum plate or have a piece of stainless steel water jetted. Maybe carbon fiber and aluminum or SS.
    I don’t want it to be part of the style but blend in.
    I want to make sure of the placement, and comfort before going much farther on a permanent mount.
    I need to start on the speaker cases next they will help decide on where the pack is mounted also, they will wrap around the seat and I need to see those before making a final decision.
    So I want something really different, if you look at all the famous styles, when they customize they clean up the lines, make things blend in instead of being added on, so one of the things that don’t really fit, and break up the lines is the back rest. It is to wide to tall and just looks added on.
    So………………..let’s mold it in out of glass, and just put a padded cover on the front.

    So I have covered everything with shipping tape so it will release and not hurt the back rest. I love the shipping tape for this the glass resin does not stick and the tape comes of so easy, quick and cheap.

    More later
    Last edited by HarleyCruiser; 01-21-2018 at 09:20 AM.

  5. #15
    The fiberglass has had time to cure so time to pop it off.

    Sorry the photos arenít better.

    This is only one layer of glass so it is very flexible easy to get it to unglued from the tape. I really like using the shipping tape glass hardly stick to it makes popping pretty easy.

    And on sitting on the tour pack.

    It is way to ďHeavyĒ so need to give it a diet.
    Those are dividers, I am using them to mark where I want to cut.
    I want the back rest shorter and I want the back of the back rest moved forward and more of a slant. As long as the dividers are perpendicular it will mark where the two pieces will line up after cut.

    After cutting the front line.

    Then cutting the back line.

    I want to do another trim to get the back of the back rest angled a little more I want it to flow into the tour pack and the top just a tad lower about an inch but that is the general shape. I donít want the back rest to overpower the tour pack.
    More when I get time.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Somewhere in N.E. Pa.
    For Sale
    You better fit momma to that backrest and make sure she's comfortable before you go to far. Lol

  7. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Pittsburgh, Pa
    Quote Originally Posted by Puzzled View Post
    You better fit momma to that backrest and make sure she's comfortable before you go to far. Lol
    Good idea! Happy wife happy life!!

    Sent from my Note 4 using Tapatalk

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Puzzled View Post
    You better fit momma to that backrest and make sure she's comfortable before you go to far. Lol

    Quote Originally Posted by DanHappy View Post
    Good idea! Happy wife happy life!!

    Sent from my Note 4 using Tapatalk
    Oh yea, Mrs Cruiser is definitely included in the fitting, she looked at it and said, "Where is my cup holder going to be?"
    Last edited by HarleyCruiser; 01-22-2018 at 05:16 PM.

  9. #19
    Moving forward, I want to make sure the angle is right for the back rest, it will eventually have a padded cover in the front.
    So old phone that has an angle finder checked against my nephews FLH

    Here are the two glassed together, it was cut down even more and the back part laid down more.

    You can see there is a gap on both sides that need fixed, and the very back needs to flow better. So a little tape to keep the filler off the base.

    Then the areas the need to be changed are filled with Plaster Paris, plaster Paris is not the perfect filler but works nice in this case.

    Plaster Paris cures very fast, and is easy to sand when set.
    And then you glass over the changed area.

    All the plaster Paris and anything under this layer will be ground out from underneath before it is attached permanently to the base.

    You could use body filler, and take your time and make the back rest perfect, but the areas filled would be too thick, and heavy so you would need to make a mold, then cast a new part, but doing it this way is just as time/cost effective.

    Oh yea, decided to keep the recessed area where the name tag was, and ordered this, it needs to be trimmed a tad, and the corners rounded slightly.

    More later.

  10. #20
    I need to cut out the plaster between the two layers that was added to fix the contour of the back rest.

    Now that the plaster is gone you can add more layers underneath and start sizing the glass, or making it smooth, first I am moving on to the speaker boxes. I don’t want them to follow the arm rest, I want the boxes to flow with the base. To do this need to extent the glass, this time I sprung for a for sale sign.

    It is screwed to the base and follows the curves. There is one rule for body work on Harleys, there are no flat surfaces so the plastic follows the contour.

    And then you can glass the inside, attaching it to the base.

    Pop off the plastic and you have your side. This is only one layer, this way it is still pliable and you are able to match one side to the other if they need to be changed. The addition is way bigger than needs to be, easer to subtract than add. I will make some cardboard templets to make sure both sides match.

    And here is the second side, I waited until the first side had cured before doing the second, this way you can pull the plastic to the shape that you want.

    And here is the back rest sitting on the base, you can see it is up at least two inches, I will trim both pieces so that they fit together. I am not sure where I want the cuts to be yet, probably cut the ends off the arm rest and nestle it into the extensions. This is where things get complicated, deciding on design features and figuring out the engineering aspect of what needs to be done, when.

    A little more trimming.

    And there you go, starting to take shape.


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