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  1. #71
    Quote Originally Posted by DanHappy View Post
    Keep in mind the current draw on the contact. By the looks of it, it does not look like anything high. I didn't search it ornanything, just wanted to bring it to.your attention.

    If you need to switch higher power, you could put a relay omin line with a higher amperage contact.

    Sent from my Note 4 using Tapatalk
    The current draw of the actuator is pretty low, and the controller has a fuse build in so that it doesn't overload. I have a four pack relay that I might use on it in the future.
    https://www.robotshop.com/en/4-chann...ay-module.html
    Last edited by HarleyCruiser; 03-29-2018 at 09:06 PM.

  2. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by HarleyCruiser View Post
    I did not try maximum range but it worked fine at twenty feet, when I get a chance I will give it a try.
    I'm going to be looking into it some more, but I'd like something at about 150-200 feet. But the info you provided will get me going in the right direction, I appreciate it!

  3. #73
    Quote Originally Posted by HarleyCruiser View Post
    The current draw of the actuator is pretty low, and the controller has a fuse build in so that it doesn't overload. I have a four pack relay that I might use on it in the future.
    https://www.robotshop.com/en/4-chann...ay-module.html
    On eBay in the discription it says more than 100 meters, like I said I did not test it for distance since mostly I will be at the bike, but it works like a car alarm fob.

  4. #74
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    Any updates on this project?

  5. #75
    Sorry for the delay, life kind of gets in the way, here is a update.
    Base coat is on.



    And clear coat is on, kind of.
    So,,,,,,,,,, when you see me start the sentence with this you know there is a story. I started shooting my clear and it was a little cool and spiting just a tad, so I grabbed my thinner and added just a little, shot the first coat and it was perfect. I let it flash got ready for the second coat, cleared my gun, it was fine and then ran the gun down the side of the pack.
    I’ve never seen a gun SPIT paint as much so fast in my life. Luckily I stopped checked the paint and it had jelled in the pot. Read the instructions on my thinner that I have used several time, and it was for acrylic enamel, well I am shooting urethane. I was able to clean the gun and get another two coats on, everything dried just fine but of course the clear on that side looks like……………..



    So this is a sacrificial coat.
    I always laugh when someone tells me they want to learn how to paint, I ask them if they hit there thumb with a hammer do you put the pain out of your mind and just keep hammering or do you throw the hammer across the room. If you have ever thrown a hammer in pain do not even attempt painting. It can be painful.
    So you move on, get out the wet sand paper 320 and sand it flat. In all honesty I normally shoot the clear then color sand it to see how it looks and then go back and give it a second coat a week later, so this is not that unusual, I did want to be able to wet sand it with 1000, 1500 then buff it out and run it for a while, however it does not look that bad, will just run it for a while sanded, and re-shoot it later or just go ahead and do the carbon fiber.





    You can see where I have burnt through with the coarse paper in several places, the black sure shows up where your body work needs work.
    But at least it is in paint and it is getting real straight.
    I am going to start wiring up the connector on my bike for the electronics, need to do something besides body/paint work for a while.
    Last edited by HarleyCruiser; 04-15-2018 at 08:23 PM.

  6. #76
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    Wow. That sucks. But at least things are moving in the right direction. The tourpak looks good.

  7. #77
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    Man thatís blisters an ass! Itíll look even better tho. All the extra work..

    Itís really looking good! Great job, all the way!


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  8. #78
    Thanks Wanna, Mark, yea painting and custom work can be a bitch I don’t know how you pros do it every day, the pleasure of getting stuff done and nice would drive me crazy.

    I was able to get another base coat on and several coats of clear, its not color sanded and will still need another coat.





    And I ask Mrs. Cruiser if she thought it should be covered in Carbon Fiber, and she just paused, then she paused, then just smiled said “I like the black.” I ask several friends and got the same answer, and in all honesty the black does look good. I think most people don’t even understand the CF, so might end up with black saddlebags again with a black tour pack.
    I am going to play around with a couple of colors and see what I like.

    I also did not like the very front under where the passenger pad goes, if you remember I did not cut out the whole front but left the bottom where it is flat.



    Even though it is going to be covered, it just does not make since, also I have been running the pack to test it and I have been putting my helmet in it and if the helmet is not in just the right spot the lid will not shut. Moving the back rest forward an inch and a half will let the helmet fit under the top more and let the lit shut. It will also give me a lot more room, as the sides will be rounded more.
    So….when is the best time to fix something……









    FYI this change cost me another ten for the sign and forty for another gallon of glass resin. Custom is not cheap.



    You can see how much the front has been moved up.





    And I am working on the bottom also; it does not need a ton of work. The bottom turned out flatter than I had planned, I think while I was doing so much filling the pack was sitting on the bottom and when I glassed it that it made it flat. This is also why my helmet did not fit the way that I thought.
    Moving the front will cure this, it is a lot of extra work, but remember now is the time to change things that you do not like the longer you wait the harder it is.

  9. #79
    And finishing up the new front, under the back rest.



    A little Bondo.



    I am using a different filler, this is a polyester glazing, it is two part and is much smoother than normal body filler and easer to sand. It is for a final fill, not intended for anything to thick.
    We used to use a thick lacquer glazing to do the same thing but it had a tendency to shrink and crack with time.


    You work it just like Bondo, sanding off almost all of it leaving just the parts filling the low spots.



    I also did the bottom. I did not get a photo of the paint afterwards, but you get the idea.



    I also shot the inside with some black rattle can Rustolium. (The photo show a light spot but itís all black.) Iím not too concerned with the finish, it is going to be covered with some felt but want it cleaned up some. I still need a lid for the hole.
    In all honesty you cannot tell any difference in the look of the pack with this change except the helmets fit better inside, but I am glad that I made the change, to me it made since.
    I gave the outside a quick color sanding and a quick buff to get rid of the runs and to clean it up a little. The photos donít do it justice so not going to post them will try to get better photos later. And this is not the last coat of paint soÖÖ
    I have decided to change colors I am going to a black base with silver metallic, so it looks like dark charcoal. This is going to be a little more of a challenge, I am just a hobbyist painter and metallic can be trying.




    I stuck on the name plate, I really like it, adds a lot of class and interest to the pack. It is just stuck on with some double face tape so can be removed for the final paint.
    I am going to run the pack for a while, I need to do some work on my front fender ready for paint, then the bags.

  10. #80
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    Looks good!

 

 
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