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  1. #1
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    30" Road Glide Build Questions/ Frame mods

    So after a nearly 2 year absence from this site and recovering from 2 heart attacks I have finally decided to start that dream build that I have acquired over 20K in parts just sitting in the closet. I have finally have the bug again and have started to tear down the 2012 Road Glide I am using for my host canvas. I will post some pics in a build page later as this will be a different look and style from the norm. I have seen my vision for almost 3 years now so its time to make it happen and your help along the way will be much needed.

    I am a shorter rider at only 5'-8" and my current Road King 23" build does not have air ride and just lowering blocks and shorter shocks in the rear and 2" lower front springs to get me to a comfortable seat height while sitting at a stop light.


    For this new build of a 2012 30" Road Glide build I have a Misfit Short Neck kit and trees, and a Misfit dirty bomb full air ride kit. The air ride had the tank with all the goodies, air compressor, rear shocks and front pistons.


    So here are some of my initial questions as I have the bike torn down to frame and looking at what frame mods I should to do and why.

    I want the bike to sit lower with the air all aired out and the rear swing arm hits the frame. I have read that some people are doing a swing arm mod so they can lay frame. While laying frame would be very cool, I really just want it sitting lower than it does now. Is there a replacement swing arm on the market that replaces mine or is there someone I can send my swing arm to and have it modified. If so any help would be great.

    I also want to do the 30 tooth conversion to get a little more torque out of the bottom end. Do I just need a new 30 tooth trans pulley and a new shorter belt.

    What I have found searching this site is that RB racing will make longer swing arms and chain conversions I am not sure with a mild motor that that would be necessary to do the longer swing arm or a chain drive.

    For my ride height issue I am not sure I can use the lowering blocks with the full air ride and I know you really don't ride with air at really low pressure to adjust the ride height without the probability of bottoming out so I have considered the FatBaggers drop seat rear frame section. Has anyone used a drop seat rear frame in a custom build will full body replacements such as stretched bags, fenders, side covers and stretched tank. Not sure what other mods you would need to do to make all of it work together and have a final result that looks planned and not a bandaid fix if you know what I mean.

    Please help me make successful decisions on the build to maximize the budget for a cool build.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    Easy to do the swing arm mods, if not wanting to go all the way down. I can do the fabrication if you want, but I think if you look at my 23 SG to 30 RG build thread you can see how simple it is. If your not doing a lay frame, it is much less cutting and fabricating than this. I have a new HD 30 tooth drive pulley for sale, if you decide to go this route. You do not need a shorter belt, as the 30 tooth pulley will get your rear wheel ~.75"-1.25" back further. I would suggest running a 16" wheel with the lowest profile wheel you can find that is still bagger weight rated. This will help with the lowering of the bike. Most people can get their bike down to sitting on a 1.75"-2" center stand without notching the swing arm. I don't believe you have to do a drop seat, if all you want is better foot stance while stopping. If you remove the two small wedge blocks under the seat on the frame and lay your own Fiberglass seat pan, then have a good seat guy build you a seat that is very comfortable that is 1"-1.5" less than stock. I am 5'8" as well, and this works for me.

  4. #4
    A lot of the camtech bikes have the FBI drop seat and they make side covers/tank cover to work with that kit.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baggerbill View Post
    Easy to do the swing arm mods, if not wanting to go all the way down. I can do the fabrication if you want, but I think if you look at my 23 SG to 30 RG build thread you can see how simple it is. If your not doing a lay frame, it is much less cutting and fabricating than this. I have a new HD 30 tooth drive pulley for sale, if you decide to go this route. You do not need a shorter belt, as the 30 tooth pulley will get your rear wheel ~.75"-1.25" back further. I would suggest running a 16" wheel with the lowest profile wheel you can find that is still bagger weight rated. This will help with the lowering of the bike. Most people can get their bike down to sitting on a 1.75"-2" center stand without notching the swing arm. I don't believe you have to do a drop seat, if all you want is better foot stance while stopping. If you remove the two small wedge blocks under the seat on the frame and lay your own Fiberglass seat pan, then have a good seat guy build you a seat that is very comfortable that is 1"-1.5" less than stock. I am 5'8" as well, and this works for me.
    I don't weld and it would be great if I could send to you for fab. What would u charge me. What else would be involved if I did want to lay frame. I believe the air ride setup I bought from misfits has 4" of travel and says lay frame.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardway View Post
    I don't weld and it would be great if I could send to you for fab. What would u charge me. What else would be involved if I did want to lay frame. I believe the air ride setup I bought from misfits has 4" of travel and says lay frame.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
    I sent you a PM.

  7. #7
    your in good hands hardway. AWESOME GUYS ON THIS FORUM.Always there, willing to help someone out.

 

 

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